Что такое dark academia
«Темная академия»: как субкультура из тиктока переосмысляет культурное наследие
Тикток — обитель не только танцевальных челленджей и ироничных скетчей, но и место, которое объединяет людей в новые субкультуры. Одна из таких — «темная академия». Объясняем, что это такое и как внедрить новую моду в свой стиль.
«Темная академия» (Dark Academia) — эстетика зумеров, в основе которой лежат европейская культура и стремление к знаниям. Приверженцы этого течения читают классику, стремятся выглядеть как студенты Оксфордского университета и проводят вечера за философскими беседами — в общем, стараются быть похожими на студентов университетского романа в эпоху, когда учеба преимущественно перешла в онлайн. Узнать представителя «темной академии» легко по кардигану, твидовым штанам и винтажному портфелю.
Как зародилась субкультура, точно сказать нельзя. Одна из героинь материала The New York Times утверждает, что впервые заметила эту эстетику в Tumblr еще в 2014 году — там пользователи рекомендовали книги под фотографиями в стиле нуар.
«Академия», которую можно найти в тиктоке, интересуется широким периодом истории искусств: с XVIII века по 1940-е годы. Представители субкультуры наверняка не раз пересмотрели фильм «Общество мертвых поэтов», а на их книжной полке можно найти и «Анну Каренину», и «Гарри Поттера».
Мир, придуманный Джоан Роулинг, — пожалуй, самый наглядный пример «темной академии». Молодые люди погружены в особенный, закрытый студенческий мир, носят униформу и живут в почти готических интерьерах.
Дарк академия стиль одежды — как постичь и собрать образ
Добро пожаловать в наш уютный блог, дорогой читатель. Скорее всего, ты не сильно любишь сравнительно новую социальную сеть Tik Tok, иначе бы ты не задавался вопросом про какой-то тёмный стиль в одежде. Да-да, дарк академия стиль одежды — это стиль, порождённый пользователями сети, и сегодня я расскажу тебе всё, что про него знаю. Откуда пошло это новомодное течение, в чём особенности. А самое главное — что ты хочешь сказать и как самовыразиться, одеваясь в стиле «тёмной академии».
Что такое дарк академия стиль одежды?
Если ты спешишь, давай коротко. Смотрел(а) Гарри Поттера? Ну, скорее всего, да. Большинство персонажей носят одежду как раз именно этого стиля, дарк академия. Добавлю немного вербальности: пиджаки, мантии, строгая униформа, закрытое общество («только для своих») — вся эта романтика отражается в стиле их одежд. И если не хочется тратить много времени на изучение стиля, то просто пересмотри фильм и вдохновляйся. Или уже скачай себе на смартфон Tik Tok.
Особенности стиля
Тем не менее, давай всё же подробно поговорим про этот стиль. Его начало часто приписывают представителям поколения «Z» (или попросту, зумеров), которые стремятся получить как можно больше знаний и выглядеть, как выпускник из Оксфорда. Эпитет дарк (с англ. — тёмный) в названии неслучайный — стиль характеризуется минорными нотами поэзии ушедших веков вместе с готикой. Тем не менее, не сказать, что такая субкультура зародилась совсем недавно — некоторые журналисты замечали подобные образы ещё в 2014-м. А сейчас, как это часто бывает, общественность придала этому особое значения, возведя свой интерес к стилю в n-ную степень.
Вместе с этим та же самая общественность успела и поругаться на «закрытость» субкультуры. Якобы она навязывает некоторую классовость — недоступность элитного образования, например. Впрочем, контраргументов, не переживай, тоже предостаточно.
Дарк академия стиль одежды — как собрать свой образ
Пожалуй, есть несколько базовых вещей, которые должны быть в гардеробе для этого стиля. Во-первых, это кардиган (только не оверсайз, а стройный и подтянутый). Во-вторых, твидовые штаны или юбка. А также обязателен какой-нибудь винтажный аксессуар, например, портфель. Словом, для тебя я подобрала несколько образов — вдохновляйся!
Dark Academia
Dark Academia
Дата создания
Пик популярности
Атрибуты
Схожие эстетики
Людей, использующих эту эстетику, обычно называют «темными академиками». Однако использование этого термина в других контекстах может потенциально вызвать путаницу, поскольку название «академический» обычно относится к исследователям и профессорам, в то время как DarkAcademics не обязательно имеет признанные полномочия.
Содержание
История [ ]
Наибольшее и наиболее заметное влияние на эстетику оказывают идеи и образ жизни знати и интеллектуалов романтической эпохи, таких как лорд Байрон, Перси Шелли, Мэри Шелли и Эдмунд Берк. Когорта была известна тем, что писала прекрасные стихи и прозу, в то же время живя вялой и привилегированной жизнью. Их работы подчеркивали эмоции, воображение и историчность. Большая часть их стихов, произведений искусства и прозы публикуется в социальных сетях.
Позднее эстетическое и декадентское движение, возглавляемое Оскаром Уайльдом, придает «денди» и гомосексуальные аспекты эстетики Интернета.
Признательность самой Донне Тартт исходит из статьи Esquire «Тайная устная история Беннингтона: самый декадентский колледж 1980-х», в которой описывается «злоба в стиле барокко, зловещий гламур и коррупция, столь глубокая, что это именно то, что подразумевается под слово декаданс». Это укрепляет связь Донны Тартт и ее альма-матер с прецедентами. Кроме того, ее андрогинность, близкая дружба и рок-н-ролльный образ жизни вызывают восхищение у аудитории Darkacademic. Его публикация в 2019 году также связывает эту статью с ростом популярности c 2020.
Тег «Темная академия» появился на tumblr примерно в 2015 году, имел относительно меньший охват и относился к основной работе, положившей начало эстетике: «Тайная история». Эстетика больше напоминала книжный клуб, чем истинную эстетику, и пользователи в основном общались через запросы и реблоги, чтобы обсудить саму работу, с меньшим влиянием на моду и образ жизни. Подобно другим фандомам, фандом «Тайная история» создавал мудборды; однако они не походили на типичную эстетику Темной Академии, вместо этого приобретая более минималистичный вид с фотографическим акцентом на символах, относящихся к персонажам, типографике и фанкастам.
Многие из этих блогов делали реблог контента тамблеров, посвященных истории искусства, которые публиковали фотографии архитектуры и картин в движениях, описанных в разделе визуальных эффектов. По мере того, как блоггеры обсуждали средства массовой информации, которые стали ассоциироваться с Dark Academia, и несколько людей публиковали материалы по истории искусства, сообщество сформировалось, и было создано название.
Имя было популяризировано в течение 2017–2018 годов благодаря множеству различных текстовых сообщений на tumblr; Пользователь holocene-days перечислил три канонических фильма и книги Dark Academia, сказав: «Святая троица Dark Academia, которая убивает ваших любимых, общество мертвых поэтов и тайную историю».
Эстетика со временем эволюционировала из эстетики, которая имела небольшое сообщество, была изучена посредством осмоса и сосредоточена конкретно на средствах массовой информации, в то, чем она является сегодня. Темная академия развивалась таким образом, чтобы эстетика передавалась; Коллажи персонажей стали популярными по мере того, как люди больше соответствовали эстетической культуре онлайн, в частности Studyblr, а эстетика была систематизирована через различные социальные сети. Распространяясь на разные аудитории, эстетика стала чем-то более амбициозным и ориентированным на образ жизни, с руководствами и рекомендациями, а не просто визуальными эффектами.
Философия [ ]
Темные академики также ценят прошлое, особенно такие эпохи, как классический, романтический, викторианский и ревущий 20-е. Эта романтизация часто может привести к навязчивой идее и чувству эйфории от академического переутомления.
На этом, в отличие от чистого аполлонического интеллекта академических кругов, строится стремление к дионисийскому экстазу, иррациональности и похоти. Эти мотивы специально взяты из «Тайной истории» Донны Тартт, которая расширена в историческом разделе. В сообществе есть желание столкнуться с измененными состояниями сознания, которые обнаруживают «более чистые» и более сильные эмоции и потерю контроля. Это проявляется в основном в цитатах из литературы и шутках о достижении этого состояния.
В этом эстетическом сообществе часто можно увидеть квир-любовь. Многие пользователи восхищаются литературными персонажами и чудаками-интеллектуалами, такими как Ахиллес и Патрокл, Сапфо, Оскар Уайльд и Вирджиния Вульф. Это основывается на признании гуманитарных наук как способа установления связей во времени, но через сообщество, которое часто игнорируется в истории. Эта эстетика также дает выход людям, которые не вписываются в стереотипную квир-культуру Кэмпа, альтернативную моду и открытую сексуальность, выражая эстетику, больше ассоциирующуюся с интроверсией, но при этом сохраняющую квир-код для тех, кто находится в сети. А в книгах Dark Academic многие персонажи либо открыто, либо намекают на то, что они странные, либо развивают гомоэротические отношения. Это встроено в культуру «нежности» и «тоски» на tumblr в 2019 году, которая возвышает романтическую любовь, как ответную, так и безответную, а также старомодные символы ухаживания, такие как письма и художественное вдохновение.
Dark Academia
Dark Academia
Key motifs
Key colours
Key values
Related aesthetics
Related media
Dark Academia is a popular (and the original) academic aesthetic that revolves around classic literature, the pursuit of self-discovery, and a general passion for knowledge and learning. It is one of several variations of Academia aesthetic, each with a unique subject focus.
Dark Academia’s visuals stem primarily from upper-class European culture of the 19th century, Gothicism, and American Prep. The upper class of this time period emphasized a liberal education in which Latin, rhetoric and classics were taught subjects. These are now seen as unusual and slightly esoteric, creating an allure that presents schooling as not dreary or boring, but one that cultivates mystery, curiosity, and diligence that isn’t commonly seen in contemporary schooling.
Pretentiousness is celebrated within the Dark Academia community. Romanticizing education and moments in life is the core appeal of the aesthetic. Making grandiose statements and wishes for success is a common text post subject.
Other than the appreciation of learning, Dark Academia includes motifs of criminality, danger and mystery. Secret societies, cults and murder are common subjects within the aesthetic. Characters within the works of fiction associated with Dark Academia, specifically The Secret History and Kill Your Darlings, live decadent and self-destructive lifestyles involving drugs, moments of intense violence and secrets.
People who use this aesthetic are usually referred to as Dark Academics. However, using this term in other contexts could potentially cause confusion as the title «academic» typically refers to researchers and professors, while DarkAcademics do not necessarily have recognized credentials.
Contents
History
It is important to note that in multiple ways, Dark Academia is not new. Rather, it is a continuation of different pre-existing aesthetics that had a basis in artistic periods, literature and mannerisms surrounding the upper class. The Dark Academia aesthetic referred to in this article is within the context of mid-late 2010s-early 2020s internet culture wherein users, largely teenagers, discuss the contents of the page online. This phenomenon is largely confined to social media such as tumblr, Instagram and Tiktok.
The largest and most notable influence on the aesthetic is the ideas and lifestyles of Romantic-era nobles and intellectuals such as Lord Byron, Percy Shelley, Mary Shelley and Edmund Burke. The cohort was known for writing poetry and prose of great beauty while living languid and privileged lives. Their works emphasized emotion, imagination, and the historical. Much of their poetry, art, and prose is posted on social media sites.
The later Aesthetic and Decadent movement, headed by Oscar Wilde, lends the «dandy» and homosexual aspects of the internet aesthetic.
All of these historic periods were reflected in Donna Tartt’s The Secret History. The sublime, picturesque and beautiful are concepts frequently repeated by the narrator, Richard Papen; the main characters vacation in a remote mansion and get drunk, discuss intellectually stimulating topics and lived decadently, like the Romantic poets did in their famed Geneva trip; and the ritual for Bacchanal is a representation of the same fascination with the irrational.
Appreciation for Donna Tartt herself comes from the Esquire article «The Secret Oral History of Bennington: The 1980s’ Most Decadent College,» which describes «the baroque wickedness, the malignant glamour, the corruption so profound as to be exactly what is meant by the word decadence.» [1] This cements the connection of Donna Tartt and her alma mater to the precedents. Additionally, her androgyny, close friendships and rock-and-roll lifestyle are admired by the Darkacademic audience. [2] Its publication of 2019 also links this article to the rise in popularity c. 2020.
The tag «Dark Academia» originated sometime around 2015 on tumblr and had a relatively smaller reach and referred to the main work that started the aesthetic: The Secret History. [3] The aesthetic resembled a book club more than a true aesthetic and users largely communicated through asks and reblogs to discuss the work itself, with less of an influence placed on fashion and lifestyle. Similar with other fandoms, the The Secret History fandom produced moodboards; however, they did not resemble the typical Dark Academia aesthetic, instead taking on a more minimalist look with photographic emphasis on symbols relating to characters, typography and fancasts. [4]
Multiple other fandoms also contributed to the development. Many of the visuals came from the Harry Potter series, which was popular at the time; the films’ set (largely from Oxford University), whimsy surrounding studying, leather-bound books and mystery are clear links to the Dark Academia aesthetic.
Many of these blogs reblogged content from art history-centered tumblrs, which posted photos of architecture and paintings in the movements described in the visuals section. As bloggers discussed the media that has come to be associated with Dark Academia and multiple people posted art history content, the community formed and the name was created.
The aesthetic evolved over time from an aesthetic that had a small community, was learned through osmosis and focused specifically on the media into what it was today. Dark Academia evolved in ways that the aesthetic was communicated; character collages became popular as people more in tune with online aesthetic culture, specifically Studyblr, and the aesthetic became codified through different social media. In spreading to different audiences, the aesthetic became something more aspirational and lifestyle-oriented, with guides and recommendations instead of purely visuals to look at.
On June 30th, 2020, The New York Times published an article entitled «Academia Lives — on TikTok,» making Dark Academia, and the aesthetic community in general, known to an audience typically separate from online youth culture. [6]
Philosophy
Romanticizing the university experience and appreciating the environments and activities associated with Dark Academia (which is included below) is the most common motif. Romanticizing is the act of creating an ideal image of something, with seeing the subject as romantic, beautiful, and significant. In this aesthetic, appreciators look to studying and gaining knowledge as the thing to idealize. The learning is done for learning’s sake. Rather than using an education as a means of gaining employment, good grades (which is still strived for, but not the main goal), or doing it out of a sense of obligation, Dark Academics study for personal enjoyment. In fact, many people join Dark Academia to motivate themselves in their schoolwork.
A quote from The Dead Poets Society that is one of the most reblogged screencaps in the community. It communicates the appreciation for the humanities and romanticism.
Specifically, the community enjoys the emotional connection to their subject of study. This is almost always the humanities (literature, history, philosophy, etc.) and languages, as opposed to STEM or artistic creation, which are celebrated in Science Academia, Theatre Academia, Art Academia, etc., off-shoots created specifically for these different subjects. Specifically, the humanities are insights into the purpose and nature of humanity.
Dark Academics also have an appreciation for the past, specifically eras such as the Classical, Romantic, Victorian, and Roaring 20s.
This romanticization can often lead to obsession and the feeling of euphoria under academic overwork.
Building off of this, contrasting from the pure Apollonian intellect of academia is the desire for Dionysian ecstasy, irrationality, and lust. These motifs specifically originated from The Secret History by Donna Tartt, which is expanded in the history section. In the community, there is the desire to encounter altered states of consciousness, which reveal «purer» and more intense emotions and losses of control. The way this is shown is largely through reblogged quotes from literature and jokes about reaching this state of being.
Another one of the main appeals of Dark Academia is intrigue that comes with being in a cohort of intellectuals. In the works of fiction that are thought to be the Dark Academia «canon,» (The Secret History, If We Were Villains, The Dead Poets Society) there is always a clique of students that share a common passion for their subject. The appreciators of Dark Academia enjoy the close bonds of a group of friends- but one that transcends the typical thought of casual, pleasure-based friends and into something more profound and intimate.
Queer love is often seen in this aesthetic community. Many users admire literary characters and intellectuals who were queer, such as Achilles and Patroclus, Sappho, Oscar Wilde, and Virginia Woolf. This builds off on the appreciation for the humanities as a way to create connections across time, but through a community that is often neglected in history. This aesthetic also provides an outlet for people who do not fit into the stereotypical queer culture of Camp, alternative fashion, and overt sexuality by expressing an aesthetic more associated with introversion but still being queer-coded to those who are online. And within Dark Academic books, many characters are either openly or hinted to be queer or develop homoerotic relationships. This is built into the «tenderness» and «yearning» culture on tumblr during 2019, which uplifts romantic love, both requited and unrequited, as well as old-fashioned symbols of courtship such as through letters and artistic inspiration.
However, negative emotions and drama within these platonic and romantic relationships are also important. The characters from the above works have their own judgments on the other members in their clique and their actions, often developing alliances, toxic romances and sexual relationships, a clear leader, and an ostracized member. In the works of fiction, the murder/other crime leads the friend group to develop tension where betrayal and loyalty becomes life-or-death (see the Media section for more details.)
Visuals
Dark Academia as a whole utilizes the colors black, beige, dark brown, forest green, dark orange, cream, gold and burgundy. The photographs tend to be dimly lit, as to give the appearance of illumination through only candle light, a sun-less day, or light being unable to reach the interiors of a deep, alcove-filled room. As such, chiaroscuro and tenibrism, the contrast between light and dark, is a common motif within images and outfits. White statues in the dark, pale skin (see Eurocentrism) contrasting Darkclothing and the art movements described below are examples of this style. Often, photo editing is employed to increase the shadows of the image.
Gothic, Beaux-Arts and Neoclassical architecture are featured frequently in Darkacademic images, as most of the prestigious campuses, museums and libraries were built in this style. Other common buildings are Baroque palaces that evoke masked balls (overlapping with Dark Royalcore), English manor houses and Victorian streets. Red brick, rusticated stone, wrought iron fencing, Gothic arches, mahogany paneling, classical columns and generous ornamentation are common traits shared among these spaces. Some of the most common buildings reblogged are: the campuses of Harvard, Oxford and Cambridge; the Isabella Stewart Gardner museum; the Gloucester Cathedral; and the Victoria and Albert Museum.
The artworks utilized in Dark Academia come from the periods typically associated with European civilization: Renaissance, Baroque, Dutch Golden Age, Neoclassical, Academic, Romantic, Aesthetic and Pre-Raphaelite periods are the paintings that are the most commonly reblogged, with subjects such as architecture, landscapes, anatomical studies, vanitas, Christian and Classical mythology and portraiture of people wearing austere clothing. Etchings are incredibly common, as well as illustration and sketching. These have a benefit of having literary subjects, as these were often accompaniments to books.
Sculpture is always done in white marble and in the styles of Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical. Technique, such as in the illusion of flesh, psychological presence, diaphanous fabric and drapery, is admired.
The romanticization of studying, journaling and letter-writing is demonstrated through appreciation for calligraphy and stationary. Fountain pens and typewriters are proudly displayed and users would often take images of the results of their notebook entries, not unlike Studyblr. However, their writing is cursive and decorations are sparse.
Images associated with literature are another common photo subject. Antique books, screenshots of e-books with highlighted lines, annotations, and typography are common. Latin, ancient Greek, English and French are popular in Dark Academia both as subjects of linguistic study and in aesthetic images of text. A recent (around spring 2021) tumblr trend is the use of «comparatives/parallels/web-weaving,» which are short compilations of 5-10 quotes and/or images from poetry, literature, art, movies, etc. that center around one motif such as «the kitchen table» and «women and horror.» Note that this type of post is not exclusive to Dark Academia, and is more aligned with fans of literature in general.
Nature may make an appearance in the aesthetic, mostly in the form of British moors, autumnal forests and occasional images of seaside cliffs. Dreary weather such as fog and rain enhances the gloomy nature of this aesthetic. This further adds to the romanticism of sneaking into the forest to do pagan rituals, as well as creating a connection to the poetry of the American Romantics. The influence of the Picturesque and the Sublime, as outlined in the work of Edmund Burke, is another aspect of this. This can overlap into an autumn Cottagecore blended aesthetic.
Boarding school imagery, such as school uniforms, living in a dormitory and running away, is more common in a more youthful and playful interpretation of the aesthetic. Here, the sense of mystery, danger and kinship are enhanced and the professionalism and sophistication connotations are lessened.
Cafe society is also another influence on the aesthetic. Coffee shops are associated with both the flaneurs of 19th-century Paris and the contemporary stressed college students of today. As such, that space is romanticized and images of coffee, people-watching and studying within the space is popular.
Violent imagery addresses the «dark» moniker. Like in the novels and films, murder and death are popular subjects. This is displayed through murder weapons that are also aesthetically pleasing, i.e. vials of poison, ornate daggers and even occasional images of guns. Blood, such as on clothing or on white statues (bashing someone’s head) is another example. Graveyards are also another location that is commonly reblogged due to the connotations with Gothic literature and memento mori.
For the purposes of citation, as well as a way to view inspiration, here is a link to the Wayback Machine’s snapshots of the Dark Academia tag on tumblr.
Fashion
Dark Academia fashion emphasizes a high-class and vintage form of dress which is an amalgamation of different historical periods. The main inspiration for DarkAcademic fashion comes from American Prep, such as sweater vests or sweaters worn tied over the shoulders. This itself came from 1940s prep school uniforms, as seen in blazers, pleated skirts and regimental striped ties. Stereotypes surrounding humanities professors also influenced the fashion. Tweed blazers with elbow patches are one of the «essentials» of a DarkAcademic wardrobe, as explained here. Elements of the Victorian and Romantic fashion are also influences on the more fanciful interpretation of the style, and create a Gothic novel character or eccentric dandy look. Autumn is the most common and desired season, as Dark Academia outfits often layer pieces over each other.
One of the appeals of a Dark Academia wardrobe is the versatility of the pieces, as many of them could be mixed and matched. Like with school uniforms, this allows students/academics to not have to concern themselves too much with choosing their outfits in the day. [7] Additionally, all of these clothes are commonly seen in a variety of stores, from thrift shops to in-person malls to designer brands. Searching for garments is thus easier, as it can fit multiple budgets and locales, as opposed to styles that have more specialized and alternative pieces that would be hard to find.
Usual fabric choices are more upscale, like cashmere, wool and tweed, but linen and cotton are also very common. Patterns are minimal, with plaids and argyle being the most common.
The shirts worn by DarkAcademics can be masculine, professional button-ups or more ornate blouses that include details such as lace, puffed sleeves, and some ruffles. Collars are incredibly important to the look, and they often are either layered under sweaters or used as a statement, such as in sailor-style shirts.
Sweaters are also important and contribute to the autumnal and bookish character of the wearer. Turtlenecks make the look more sexy and sophisticated, and sweaters provide an opportunity to add texture to an outfit in the form of cable-knit and embroidery.
Bottoms
Pants in the Dark Academia aesthetic are always formal dress pants. They typically are in a sturdier material, such as tweed, and would sometimes feature patterns such as check and herringbone. Pleats are a common detail, and the fit around the ankles (flare, tapered, or straight) are up to personal preference.
Skirts are also featured in more feminine outfits. Pleated and/or check-patterned skirts allude to prep school uniforms; mid-length or long flowing skirts have a more elegant and Victorian feel; and straight pencil skirts, often with button details, make the look more mature and reference the 1930s-1940s.
Dresses
Dresses are often worn as layering pieces. Pinafores and sleeveless dresses are often worn under turtlenecks or collared shirts. These can include the same details as skirts, and are more basic for the sake of layering, rather than as a statement.
However, interpretations of Dark Academia that include Royalcore can include romantic ballgowns, and Cottagecore interpretations with Medieval-inspired milkmaid dresses.
tumblr user @my-darling-boy
Outerwear
Outerwear is the most prominent feature of DarkAcademic fashion because blazers, cardigans, and different kinds of coats are the most evocative of sophistication and professionalism. Outerwear is also extremely autumnal and an important feature of historical and vintage fashion in general.
The details in outerwear add texture and structure to an outfit. The fabrics used here are incredibly important, and tends to be of high-quality wool tweed. The fit of the outer layer is incredibly important because it makes the silhouette. In the community, it is largely either tailored to the wearer’s body to look clean and professional or oversized to have a more cozy or chic look.
The type of outerwear worn with an outfit can greatly change the connotations and style associated with it. Like sweaters, cardigans can add texture and tends to be a softer and more casual interpretation of the aesthetic (especially if over-sized). Meanwhile, long coats, especially in black, add intimidating drama. Blazers, typically associated with men’s businesswear, are the most common type of outerwear.
The sweater/cardigan can also be tied over shoulders to mimic the advertisements for American Prep brands.
Shoes
The shoes tend to be leather men’s dress shoes such as brogues and wing-tips. These match the timelessness and professionalism of the aesthetic and match the understated neurality of the other formal pieces.
However, Doc Marten’s black boots may be worn to add an edginess to the outfit. This brand is generally trending across many aesthetics throughout youth fashion in the 2020s, and its utilitarian nature make it avoid looking incongruous to the rest of the clothing.
In more feminine outfits, Mary-Janes or Victorian-esque footwear such as boots could be worn. These are typically matched with long socks to match other prep-school styled pieces such as pleated skirts.
Accessories
Dark Academia tends to feature gender-neutral leather vintage and rectangular bags (mostly messenger bags). These match the professional aesthetic of formal outerwear and the utilitarian, no-frills versatility of the rest of the wardrobe. However, tote bags with an art print could be used for a more casual look while still fitting in with the aesthetic.
Accessories that accompany suiting such as ties, pocket squares, and cufflinks are common. These should follow the same elegant and minimal aesthetic and fit the color palette. Unlike in some other outfits, such as in certain magazine editorials, these accessories aren’t meant to stand out and add splashes of color that make it look daring.
Leather belts are an extremely popular component in Dark Academia outfits. It connects to vintage fashion, as this was generally worn throughout history, but lessened in popularity in more contemporary times as fashion became more casual. Likewise, suspenders have the same vintage connotation, but aren’t as common in Dark Academia because of the popularity of sweaters.
Glasses match the aesthetic because of its association with bookishness. These are in classic and mature styles, such as in wire, Darkmetal, or tortoise shell frames.
More feminine outfits can feature jewelry, but this is understated and timeless, with simple gold and silver. Solid silver or gold pendants are especially common when worn with turtlenecks. Brooches are a common piece to add character flare to an outfit and are often cameos, skulls, insects, and other vintage things associated with the visuals. Rings, however, are an opportunity for exploring maximalism because many people stack different ring styles on top of each other.
Hair and Makeup
The hairstyles associated with the aesthetic are fairly loose in that multiple styles can fit, from neat bobs to long and disheveled. However, it is noted that alternative hairstyles, such as buzzed or dyed in unnatural colors tend to be left out from the aesthetic because of its incongruity with the vintage aesthetic.
The makeup associated with Dark Academia should be either minimal and natural or mysterious, almost femme fatale-like. Natural (or no) makeup is associated with the more utilitarian and masculine forms of dress. The more obvious makeup follows the color palette of Dark Academia with burgundy lipstick and eyeshadow in grays and neutrals. Some common trends of contemporary makeup (heavy winged eyeliner, shimmer, contouring, etc.) tend to look mismatched to the more vintage type of fashion in the aesthetic and aren’t used.
Likewise, nails should be kept short and natural.
Media
Canonical Literature
Dark Academia media tends to fall into two types: the first is media that is established as classic, also known as part of «the canon,» meaning that the work is considered by academics to have artistic merit and is worthy of academic study. These books tend to be from the Classical Era (such as the plays of Sophocles, philosophical theory, etc.) and Western literature up to the mid 20th century. Literature such as this does not include Dark Academia tropes, but are considered Dark Academia because it has the same associations with intelligence, refinement and would be studied in the setting. Note that what is classified as high literature is connected to critiques of Eurocentrism. For more information and a list of examples of books included, see the Wikipedia entry on Western Canon.
Dark Academia Tropes
The second group is media that is not studied by academic professionals and may often be «pop» literature, which means it primarily seeks to entertain instead of create a philosophical dialogue. They are included here for having visuals and tropes that match the aesthetic.
What is considered Dark Academia media is largely subjective and there is not a set list of rules associated with the aesthetic. The media is recommended through tumblr posts, Goodreads bookshelves, Letterboxd lists, etc.
The Dark Academia community tends to read books or watch movies. Anime, plays, musicals and podcasts are included here for their resemblance to the aesthetic, rather than them being discussed in the community.
Here are the common tropes and traits of DarkAcademic-specific media, not canonical literature. Note that not all works below have all traits: [8]
Setting
Novels (and films) that are considered Dark Academia take place in an academic setting, which includes high schools, boarding schools, and universities. These schools will have a prestigious reputation, with elements of exclusivity. The students would be of a higher socio-economic status, with mannerisms, clothing, and character concerns that reflect this.
The time period varies, but the 19th-mid 20th centuries are the most popular. The latter half of the 20th century to contemporary times would not include references to pop culture, technology, or the despairs typically associated with modern life (capitalism, consumerism, environmental destruction, etc.) This lack of modern technology may be one of the reasons why the contemprary audience is attracted to the genre- it is a form of escapism that allows the audience to be immersed in an environment that is extremely different from the quarantined audience of 2020. [9]
The academic setting would also influence the characters in that their subject of study would appear in allusions and character motivations. The subject is almost always of the humanities; for example, Shakespeare in If We Were Villains or the classics in The Secret History. Knowledge is often esoteric and forbidden, creating a seductive allure.
Style
The most common traits among the media considered Dark Academia is the emphasis on prose. Elevated vocabulary, lavish detail, and insight into emotions and human character are paramount. Quotes are often shared among the community, making the work cemented as part of the Dark Academia «canon.»
Characterization
The characters, in fitting in with their setting being an academy, would be intelligent and largely passionate about their discipline.
Plot and Motifs
Books
Please do not list books by authors in the list below. By author surname:
Authors
Comics
Lucien Carr (Dane DeHaan, Left) and Allen Ginsberg (Daniel Radcliffe, Right) are performing a blood oath while at a party.
Movies
TV shows
Anime & manga
Plays
Musicals
Podcasts
Video games
Music
The music typically associated with Dark Academia evokes the same historical and elite aesthetic through classical music, which is regarded as upper-class and traditional and multiple people within these types of families were encouraged to pursue music to create a wide profile of skills. Specifically, the classical music used is wide-ranging, as Baroque (Bach, Vivaldi) and Romantic (Liszt, Tchaikovsky) is included. The classical music used in the aesthetic is typically in a tone more romantic, melancholy, epic, or severe, as it is played in the minor key and with piano and strings.
Contemporary alternative music is extremely popular, arguably more so than the classical and allows for the lyrics to carry across the motifs of romance, betrayal, mystery and crime. Classical allusions and metaphors with nature are also common techniques. There is a wide variety of instrumentation, although some common characteristics are: the use of strings or piano, slow and deep bass and backing or echoing vocals. Tempo tends to be slower and like in classical, has a more melancholy and contemplative tone. The genres that these songs fall into are alternative rock and indie.
On YouTube, it is popular to create videos that are playlists for studying, with the video showing an image with the DarkAcademic aesthetic. Titles conveying the common tropes in the genre are common, for example, «talking with the ghosts in an abandoned library.» [10] These playlists are a common entry for people into the aesthetic. The trend appeared in late 2020 and early 2021, as seen by the most popular videos being created approximately the same time. [11]
Musicians
Albums
Playlist
Official Aesthetics Wiki playlist
The Aesthetics Wiki staff creates official Spotify playlists for aesthetics, which compile the songs most frequently featured on existing playlists dedicated to those aesthetics. Pages about aesthetics that have an official wiki playlist will not include other playlists.
Activities
The de facto Dark Academia activities are studying and reading. Learning about Dark Academia subjects (literature, languages, history, philosophy, etc.) is one of the ways that Dark Academia fans build community. Holding book clubs, recommending readings and discussing theory with peers is done through tumblr asks and reblogs, Discord servers and other social media sites. Solitary studying is more popular, however. Essay-writing, memorizing vocabulary and annotating literature are activities that are encouraged to pursue for fun. But unlike Studyblr, less emphasis is placed on sharing studying tips and the scholastic experience. Rather, the subject or the emotions felt during studying is discussed. For example, as opposed to infographics on the advantages of different note-styles, DarkAcademics wax poetically about the euphoria associated with finally mastering a language.
However, social situations such as parties and being within a group are more than encouraged. Being drunk and having engaging conversations is a popular wish for DarkAcademics to have and why many people bond over this aesthetic. Dinner parties, coffee dates, and picnics in the forest are a frequent outlet for this, and wine, coffee, tea, bread, cheese, and upscale, traditional dishes are mentioned frequently in novels.
Supernatural experiences and loss of control are activities that are wished for (but not done due to their improbability). There are frequent mentions of the «bacchanal,» which was the inciting incident of The Secret History, where the characters experienced divine madness through ritual.
Creative pursuits are also encouraged. Romanticism is linked with expressing emotions. Journaling, acting in theater, writing poetry and creating art are examples of this desire. What makes these activities «fit» the aesthetic is how closely it aligns with the patrician and academic class of the eras. For example, expressing oneself through rap music or making drip paintings would not be considered Dark Academic, but playing Chopin’s Nocturnes or painting a naturalistic portrait of a lover would be.
Visiting buildings that fit the Dark Academia visuals, such as libraries, art museums, historic houses, churches, etc. is another way of experiencing the aesthetic. Existing and daydreaming in the space, taking note of the architecture and the people existing in it is in line with the romanticism of the ethos.
Sports such as squash, horse riding, croquet and lacrosse can be claimed as Dark Academia due to their connection with Preppy culture. Multiple private schools’ aspiring Ivy League students are encouraged to involve themselves with these sports in order to create a diverse skill set. And as described in the Preppy page, many of these sports are obscure and would not be accessed by an average person.
Hobbies that are not necessarily intellectually or emotion-driven, but have the appearance of the aesthetic are also included. This includes calligraphy, book-binding and embroidery. The emphasis on improving oneself, dedication to a subject and active thinking and focus could be applied to these (and many more) hobbies. Again, what determines if a hobby could fit into the aesthetic is its resemblance to the visuals and connotations. The activities should fit the leisure class of the time periods.
For comedy’s sake, many DarkAcademics banter about committing crimes such as murder, art theft, and blackmail.
Criticism
Aestheticization of unhealthy behavior
Dark Academia has been criticized for its apparent encouragement of unhealthy behavior in the pursuit of both the aesthetic itself and academic achievement. [14] [15] Stress and procrastination related to education, depression and its symptoms, unhealthy sleep habits, including both under and oversleeping and excessive consumption of coffee, are frequently referenced and discussed in Dark Academic communities.
Western Eurocentrism
Dark Academia focuses predominantly on languages, literature, architecture, art, poetry and fashion originating from Western Europe and has been consequently criticized as Eurocentric. Many Darkacademics have rejected an exclusionary interpretation of Dark Academia and encouraged academics to include non-Western languages, literature, architecture and clothing in their conceptions and use of the aesthetic. [16] [17] [18]
Lack of True Academic Thought
Another criticism of Dark Academia does not lie in its socio-political issues, but rather that DarkAcademics are not necessarily intellectual, and overly emphasize the aesthetic, rather than actually participate in academic work. Many, if not most, of the works included in the Dark Academia canon are pop literature, often from the young adult genre. So, some literature fans are exasperated when DarkAcademics assume a persona of being intellectual and sophisticated, when the novels they read do not express the same literary quality as more rigorous novels do.
The use of books being a point for fashion and lifestyle inspiration without much emphasis on critical thought is another contention. This is especially true with appreciation for The Secret History, which is supposed to be a satire- people trying to mimic their lifestyle and personality of the characters are missing the point of the novel mocking the main characters. [19] Many books demonstrate that pretentiousness and isolation from non-academics create hubris, leading to the characters’ downfalls; readers who understand the theme would be less inclined to assume these relationship dynamics, presumably.
Additionally, many critics claim that Dark Academia is more preoccupied with the visual aesthetic rather than studying and Academia itself. Rather than enjoying studying and reading because of the subject matter/themes, some critics say that these people are more preoccupied with projecting the aesthetic of being sophisticated, in affect being posers.
Fans of the aesthetic also, entirely inadvertantly, changed the semantic meaning behind Academia as an amorphous class that includes the poor, people of color, and a variety of cultures to an aesthetic that emphasizes Western Eurocentricism and classicism, with a set lifestyle and mode of thought. From this, people will continue seeing Academia as a group of pretentious ivory tower types instead of the diversity of the class. Anti-intellectualism and a lack of class solidarity results from this misconception of Academia, and the aesthetic may perpetuate this view to the generation on social media. [20]
Resources
External links to help get a better understanding of this aesthetic.